In 2012, Babizhayev et al. conducted a 4-month randomized, double-blind, controlled study with 42 subjects to evaluate the effects on skin aging of oral nonhydrolyzed carnosine (Can-C Plus formulation). Skin parameters exhibited a consistent and significant improvement during 3 months of supplementation in the treatment group, compared with the placebo group, with overall skin appearance enhanced and fine lines diminished based on visual inspection. There were no reports of adverse effects. The investigators concluded that supplementation with nonhydrolyzed carnosine or carcinine in patented oral formulations has potential as an agent for antiaging purposes.19
Two years later, Emanuele et al. conducted an experimental double-blind irradiation study to compare a complex novel topical product (TPF50) consisting of three active ingredients (traditional physical sunscreens, SPF 50; a liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes complex – photolyase, endonuclease, and 8-oxoguanine glycosylase [OGG1]; and a robust antioxidant complex containing carnosine, arazine, and ergothionine) to available DNA repair and antioxidant and growth factor topical products. They found that the new topical agent was the most effective product in reducing three molecular markers (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, protein carbonylation, and 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2’-deoxyguanosine) in human skin biopsies. The researchers concluded that the carnosine-containing formulation enhances the genomic and proteomic integrity of skin cells after continual UV exposure, suggesting its potential efficacy in lowering the risk of UV-induced cutaneous aging and nonmelanoma skin cancer.20
Conclusion
Carnosine is an intriguing compound with well-documented antioxidant and wound healing activity. While more research is necessary to determine its wider applications in dermatology, recent work in formulating topical products to impart antiaging effects appears to show promise.
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Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Dermatology News since January 2001. Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.