It is virtually impossible to assess the cumulative effects of repeated exposures to ingredients found in personal care products that may come from multiple sources. This is important because consumers, especially women, use several skin, hair, and beauty products per day. Typical use of a variety of products could lead to a higher combined rate of exposure than is usually assessed in safety studies. In addition, because of the use of a variety of products, the ingredients could interact, the possibility of which may not be accounted for in single-ingredient safety studies. Furthermore, to accurately establish the baseline of the chemical exposures that people can safely tolerate, it would be necessary to account for all chemical exposures from food, urban smog, industrial waste, and other sources.
Ingredient Cautions
Parabens can be absorbed via the skin and travel into the bloodstream and tissues (NewScientist.com News Service, Jan. 12, 2004). One controversial study even found high concentrations of parabens in breast cancer tissue. Products containing parabens should be avoided by most people who know they are allergic to parabens. There are no convincing data that parabens are harmful in those not allergic to this group of compounds, but many are choosing to avoid products containing this preservative ingredient.
Toluene, which is found in many brands of nail polish, has been associated with detrimental effects on males in utero. Consequently, major companies such as L'Oréal and Revlon, as well as manufacturers of natural and organic products, have taken steps to eliminate toluene from their nail polishes. Toluene can also cause a skin rash, typically on the eyelids, in people who use toluene-containing nail polishes.
Several other ingredients also warrant cautionary notes, but even organic products can cause problems. For example, coconut oil, a popular organic ingredient, can cause acne. Allergies can develop in response to many essential oils and botanicals. In addition, because companies were not able to label their products as organic until recently, there have not been enough clinical research trials on the organic products on the market.
'Natural' Ingredients
It is important to note that products touted as “natural” are not necessarily organic. For example, “active naturals” is a term used by Aveeno to describe ingredients that are found in nature but have been improved upon in the laboratory. An example is the medicinal herb feverfew, which in the Aveeno Ultra-Calming products has had parthenolide removed. Parthenolide can lead to skin inflammation, so products containing feverfew function better as anti-inflammatories without it. Products also may contain natural ingredients such as aloe, chamomile, cucumber, or vitamin E, but if these have not been grown in the required manner, the organic seal cannot be used. In addition, “natural products” may also contain chemicals intended to act as preservatives or to improve texture.
That said, problems can, of course, be associated with ingredients that are natural or organic. For instance, many natural and organic brands contain certain fragrances and essential oils that can cause dermatitis. Organic products containing strong essential oils such as peppermint or rosemary can also irritate or inflame sensitive skin. Chamomile can induce allergies in some people (who may also tend to be allergic to wheat). Furthermore, conventional as well as some natural products contain a “perfume mix” to mask their odor. Components of the perfume mix are rarely listed on the product label because each company uses its own proprietary blend. Even a product listed as 95% organic could contain a perfume mix that might induce allergic reactions in some people.
The Future of Organics
Few product lines can meet the standards of the regulatory organizations, and it is expensive to meet and maintain these standards. There are a few well-made organic lines, such as Juice Beauty and Sophyto. However, organic does not equal efficacy. None of these products can come close to the results of a prescription retinoid.
At this point, organic products have not been subjected to the strict scrutiny of science to evaluate efficacy.
Toluene, found in many brands of nail polish, has been linked to detrimental effects of males in utero.
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