Recent advances in laser hair removal include using combination wavelengths, longer pulses, and larger spot sizes for all skin types, and using longer wavelengths for darker skin, according to Dr. E. Victor Ross.
Better pain control and cooling techniques also can make device-based hair removal a more comfortable option for patients, Dr. Ross said at a cosmetic dermatology seminar sponsored by Skin Disease Education Foundation in Santa Monica, Calif.
Photo courtesy Dr. E. Victor Ross
Though less effective than combination treatment (as shown above), some patients prefer the alexandrite laser alone for hair removal, because the combination of an alexandrite and Nd:YAG can be more painful.
When using lasers for hair removal, cooling the skin before and after treatment can reduce pain and swelling, and cooling the skin during laser exposure "tends to minimize the dermal epidermal temperature," said Dr. Ross, director of the Scripps Clinic Laser and Cosmetic Dermatology Center in Carmel Valley, Calif.
Historically, fair-skinned patients have been treated with a 755-nm alexandrite laser for hair removal. For dark or tanned skin, or coarser hair, a 1064-nm Nd:YAG might be more effective, but it can be more painful for patients, Dr. Ross noted.
In his experience, a blended treatment including both the 755-nm and 1064-nm lasers can be more effective for removing fine hair on the legs than either laser alone, he said, adding that some patients still prefer the 755-nm alexandrite laser because the combination therapy is more painful than the 755 nm, although it is less painful than the 1064 nm alone.
New hair removal technologies include ultrasound and microwave radiation, as well as lower-fluence intense pulsed light and diode options with suction.
Approaches using high repetition with low fluence have been applied in some settings. The advantage is less pain, but more research is needed to determine whether lower fluences at high rates of repetition are effective, and what types of treatments are effective for white hair, said Dr. Ross.
Suction devices are an option to assist with permanent hair reduction over larger areas. A larger spot size allows more photons to remain in the target area, while vacuum-assisted suction concentrates more cumulative energy at any given depth and allows for effective treatment at a lower fluence.
Dr. Ross also addressed laser-diode hair removal devices being marketed for home use. The key issues to consider when evaluating at-home devices are safety for all skin types; safety with open or closed eyes; effectiveness in removing fine, gray, or white hair; and, of course, cost.
The TRIA hair removal device from TRIA Beauty Inc. is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for home use. The device packs an 800-nm wavelength and fluences of 7, 12, or 20 J/cm2, and efficacy data on this product are promising, Dr. Ross said.
Dr. Ross disclosed that he is a researcher for and receives funding from multiple laser companies, including Candela, Cutera, Lumenis, Sciton, and Syneron. SDEF and this news organization are both owned by Elsevier.