To avoid jumping on the bandwagon of another ingredient trend, we sought to examine the scientific background and properties of sea buckthorn oil and it’s utility for the skin.
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Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) – also known as a Siberian pineapple tree, and as sandthorn, sallowthorn, or seaberry – is a thorny, dioecious shrub (or tree) in the oleaster family. It can grow up to 23 feet high and is found in coastal sea cliff areas and on mountain slopes of Western Europe, and in dry sandy areas of Asia Minor and Central Asia, Siberia, China, and Tibet. Common sea buckthorn flowers in late April and early May, producing a large number of small, green and brown flowers, turning into edible, usually yellow or orange round berries. The berries have a bitter, sour taste and have a mild aroma, resembling that of a pineapple. The fruit contains a small stone that covers an oily seed.
The berries are a source of antioxidant vitamins, flavonoids, and organic acids, and when pressed, produce a juice that separates into three layers: a thick cream (upper layer), a combination of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids (middle layer), and juice that is a source of fat (lower layer). The berries contain mainly vitamin C, but also vitamin A (alpha- and beta-carotene) and a mixture of other carotenoids, as well as varying concentrations of tocopherols (vitamin E), folic acid, and vitamin B complex–group vitamins.
Dr. Naissan O. Wesley
In addition to flavonoids, the berries contain catechins and procyanidins, cyclitols, phospholipids, tannins, sugars (galactose, fructose, xylose), organic acids (maleic acid, oxalic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid), phenolic acids (such as ferulic acid), and fatty oil. The amount of vitamin C content varies with the variety of the plant and where it is found. The oil of sea buckthorn may be extracted from two parts of the plant, with mechanical cold pressing of seeds (up to 12.5% weight as oil content) and fruit pulp (8%-12% oil content).
Among vegetable oils, sea buckthorn fruit oil has the highest content of palmitoleic acid (omega-7).
Fruit and seed oils contain tocotrienols and plant sterols. Pulp sea buckthorn oil has a high carotenoid content, as opposed to seed oil, and in Mongolia, Russia, and China, is used as a topical therapy for skin burns.
Other significant fatty acids found in sea buckthorn oil are saturated fatty acids (palmitic acid and stearic acid) and polyunsaturated fatty acids, which include alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6), linolic acid (omega-6), oleic acid (omega-9), and eicosanoic acid (omega-9). Gamma-linoleic acid in particular is reduced in dry skin conditions, such as aging and atopic dermatitis. The human body can produce some gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, but not linolic acid and alpha-linolenic acid. The addition of these substances to diet or skin care has been found to be beneficial in improving dryness and the skin barrier.
Dr. Lily Talakoub
In addition, linolic acid, a natural component of human sebum, has been noted to be decreased in the sebum of people with acne-prone skin. Preliminary evidence indicates that dietary supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of atopic dermatitis.
Besides use in topical skin care and cosmetic preparations, sea buckthorn has also been used successfully in the treatment of chronic gastric ulcer disease, inflammation of the vagina and cervix, and cervical erosion. The bark and leaves of sea buckthorn used to be applied to treat diarrhea and dermatologic conditions, while berry oil has been applied topically or taken orally to soften the skin.
In traditional Indian, Chinese, and Tibetan medicines, sea buckthorn berries are used for medicinal purposes, as their ingredients were thought to have a beneficial effect on the function of the alimentary, respiratory, and circulatory systems. Current studies and uses are now confirming their utility experienced over hundreds of years.
Harvesting sea buckthorn fruit is difficult because of dense thorn arrangement among the berries. Therefore, sometimes the only way to obtain fruit is to remove the entire branch of the shrub, which reduces future crops. For this reason berries can only be harvested once every 2 years.
Sea buckthorn has interesting properties and could be of benefit in topical skin care, as long as it is not overharvested or harvested in a way that has a detrimental impact on the environment.
Dr. Wesley and Lily Talakoub, MD, are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at dermnews@mdedge.com. They had no relevant disclosures.
References
United States Department of Agriculture. PLANTS Profile for Hippophae rhamnoides (seaberry). 2007.
Zielińska A and Nowak I. Lipids Health Dis. 2017 May 19;16(1):95.
Reynolds KA et al. Int J Dermatol. 2019 Dec;58(12):1371-6.