Risks of BPs in sunscreens and other skincare products
In 2015, Amar et al. investigated the photogenotoxicity and apoptotic effects in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) of BP-1, which is used as a UV blocker in sunscreens. They found that BP-1, when exposed to UV radiation, photosensitized cells and yielded intracellular reactive oxygen species. Significant reductions in cell viability were also seen with exposure to sunlight, UVA, and UVB. The researchers also confirmed genotoxic activity, with BP-1 augmenting lipid peroxidation and upregulating apoptotic proteins. They concluded that sunscreen users should be advised to avoid products that contain BP-1.10
Dr. Leslie S. Baumann
In 2019, Amar et al. evaluated the effects of BPs on the differential expression of proteins in HaCaT cells exposed to UVA. Their findings indicated the expression of novel proteins that helped to initiate or promote apoptosis. They concluded that, because of the predilection to render such effects in human skin keratinocytes, consumers should avoid the use of sunscreens that contain BPs as UV blocking ingredients.11
Still widely used as an effective filter against UVA2 and UVB, BP-3 was believed to be present in two thirds of nonmineral sunscreens in the United States in 2018.3,12
Notably, BP-1 and BP-3 were found in small proportions (3.7% and 4.9%, respectively) among a total of 283 products culled from various stores in Lecce, Italy, in a survey of the potentially dangerous chemicals found in rinse-off, leave-on, and makeup products in 2019.13 The authors added that the International Agency for Research on Cancer, in 2010, classified BP as potentially carcinogenic to humans (2B group).13,14
Promising use of nanocapsules
The widespread concern about the phototoxicity of BP has prompted some interesting research into workarounds. Specifically, in 2019, Barbosa et al. reported on the creation of a new sunscreen formulation using polymeric nanocapsules loading BP-3. The nanocapsules are made of poly(ε-caprolactone) carrot oil and Pluronic F68 (nonionic surfactant used in suspension cultures), and the BP-3–loaded capsules were found to be noncytotoxic in L929 fibroblast cell lines with a sun protection factor of 8.64. The researchers concluded that this promising nanocapsule may be an effective and safe way to use lipophilic sunscreen ingredients such as BP-3.15
Conclusion
The body of evidence is weighted against the use of BPs. Luckily, we have safe sunscreen choices that allow us to protect our skin without using these compounds.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann has written two textbooks and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Revance, Evolus, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions Inc., a company that independently tests skin care products and makes recommendations to physicians on which skin care technologies are best. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
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