In 2000, Brosche and Platt assessed the effects of borage oil consumption on various skin parameters in 29 healthy elderly people (mean age, 68.6 years). The subjects received a daily dose of 360- or 720-mg GLA from borage oil in gelatin capsules for 2 months. A statistically significant improvement in cutaneous barrier function was noted, as indicated by a mean decrease of 10.8% in TEWL. Although no significant changes in skin hydration were quantified, 42% of the participants reported dry skin prior to borage oil consumption and only 14% after using the test compound. In addition, pruritus was reported by 34% before treatment and by 0% after treatment. The researchers concluded that consumption of borage oil improved the skin function of their healthy elderly study participants (Arch. Gerontol. Geriatr. 2000;30:139-50).
In 2008, investigators studied the cutaneous effects of various constituents of a fermented dairy product. Specifically, they were interested in the bioavailability in the epidermis of the mixture of borage oil, catechins, vitamin E, and probiotics. After determining bioavailability in plasma samples, the researchers conducted a 24-week skin nutrition study in female volunteers who had dry and sensitive skin. As early as 6 weeks into the study, subjects were found to have improved stratum corneum barrier function, compared with a control product. TEWL relative to the control was also maintained through the length of the study despite seasonal weather changes. The investigators noted that the cutaneous effects of the dairy product yielded greater skin barrier function than any effects yet seen from the individual ingredients (Exp. Dermatol. 2008;17:668-74).
Uses of Borage for Eczema and Skin Reddening
A decade ago, Henz et al. conducted a 24-week, double-blind, multicenter study with 160 adults with stable, moderately severe atopic eczema who were randomized to take daily a 500-mg borage oil capsule or a placebo. The investigators noted that although several clinical symptoms improved in association with the borage oil in comparison to placebo, statistical significance was not achieved in the overall response in the borage oil group. However, significant differences in a subgroup of patients were found that suggested positive effects conferred by borage oil. These patients failed to experience increased erythrocyte DGLA levels, and investigators were not confident regarding the group’s adherence to inclusion criteria and the study protocol. The researchers observed, though, that GLA metabolites increased in the borage oil–treated patients in this group, and serum IgE appeared to be on the wane (Br. J. Dermatol. 1999;140:685-8).
In early 2009, investigators tested the cutaneous effects of flaxseed oil and borage oil supplementation in a 12-week study of two groups of women. Alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids were major constituents in the flaxseed oil doses, and linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids were the primary components in the borage oil supplement. Medium-chain fatty acids made up the placebo that was administered to the control group. Both test groups experienced a decline in skin reddening and blood flow over the study, whereas skin hydration was significantly enhanced. (Hydration was the only parameter affected in the placebo group.)
After 6 weeks of supplementation, a 10% decrease in TEWL was noted in both groups, with an additional reduction after 12 weeks identified in the flaxseed group. Investigators’ assessments indicated that skin roughness and scaling decreased significantly over the study period in both groups, as they concluded that intervention with dietary lipids can influence cutaneous properties (Br. J. Nutr. 2009;101:440-5).
Conclusion
Borage, as the greatest natural source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), is a significant plant in dermatology. Mounting evidence suggests that GLA-rich borage seed oil imparts anti-inflammatory activity in the treatment of various medical conditions, including several cutaneous ones. Borage seed oil and GLA have been shown to be effective through oral supplementation and topical administration.