WAIKOLOA, HAWAII – The use of eflornithine cream may increase the effectiveness of laser hair removal for treating pseudofolliculitis barbae, according to Dr. Andrew F. Alexis.
Laser hair removal has proved to be a game changer in the treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae, a common chronic, inflammatory dermatosis that’s often been a difficult therapeutic challenge, Dr. Alexis said at the seminar sponsored by Skin Disease Education Foundation (SDEF). And the use of adjunctive eflornithine cream makes laser therapy even more effective, based on a recent study, which is one of the few rigorous studies conducted in pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB) patients, noted Dr. Alexis, director of the skin of color center at St. Luke’s–Roosevelt Hospital and a dermatologist at Columbia University, New York.
Photo: Dermatologic Clinics 2003;21;629-44
Performing laser hair removal safely in darker-skinned patients with PFB (shown here) requires: longer wavelengths, lower fluences, longer pulse durations, and plenty of epidermal cooling.
The double-blind placebo controlled study was carried out by U.S. military physicians. PFB, which is predominantly a disorder of black men, has at times been a source of racial tension in the military because the simplest treatment for PFB is to stop shaving and grow a beard, a form of individual expression at odds with regulations.
The study included 27 men with PFB. They received laser therapy once every 4 weeks for 16 weeks. In addition, they applied eflornithine cream to one side of their bearded neck region and placebo to the other side twice daily.
At 16 weeks, the laser plus eflornithine cream side produced a median 99.5% reduction in hair count and inflammatory papules. This was a significantly better result than the median 85% reduction on the laser plus placebo–treated side (J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2012 Jan. 8; in press).
The PFB study follows an earlier study by other investigators who demonstrated that eflornithine cream as an adjunct to laser hair removal for facial hirsutism in women was more effective than laser therapy alone (J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2007;57:54-9).
Dr. Alexis said performing laser hair removal safely in darker-skinned patients with PFB requires attention to several key principles: longer wavelengths, lower fluences, longer pulse durations, and plenty of epidermal cooling.
"The No. 1 thing is to use longer wavelengths, because the goal is deeper penetration to maximize the ratio of the temperature in the bulb of the follicle to the temperature in the epidermis," he explained.
The long-pulsed 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser has the lowest rate of associated epidermal burns, hypopigmentation, and other adverse events in darker-skinned patients, as has been shown in a review of a wide assortment of lasers (J. Drugs Dermatol. 2007;6:40-6). It is clearly the safest laser option in patients with skin types IV-VI. The 810-nm diode laser is a reasonable alternative in skin types IV-V, Dr. Alexis said.
Dr. Andrew F. Alexis
In treating patients for PFB with the 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser, he said that he typically starts with a fluence of 20 J/cm2 and a pulse duration of 20-30 milliseconds. After several sessions, as he makes inroads into the initially dense follicular distribution, he said that he might increase the fluence to a maximum of 50 J/cm2 in the setting of skin type VI, and as high as 100 J/cm2 in skin types IV or V.
Longer pulse durations allow for more efficient epidermal cooling. This minimizes heat injury to melanin-containing epidermal cells. For the 810-nm diode laser, Dr. Alexis said he uses pulse durations of 100 or 400 milliseconds.
Epidermal cooling can be accomplished in several ways. His preferred method is to utilize contact cooling via a sapphire tip or chilled copper plate attached to the laser; the cooling is done before delivering the laser pulse. Alternatively, the epidermal cooling can be done using cold gels, forced air, or spray cooling, although dyschromia can occur in darker skin types if the spray technique isn’t optimal. Another option is to apply an ice pack for 5-10 minutes post treatment.
Laser therapy is expensive, so Dr. Alexis said he likes to give his patients a range of therapeutic options. These include growing a beard, chemical depilation with barium sulfide or calcium thioglycolate every 2-4 days, modification of shaving practices, and salicylic acid chemical peels.
"It’s kind of a long conversation," he said.
Whatever form of therapy the patient decides upon, it’s important that the patient stops tweezing to remove ingrown hairs. This is a common practice that induces trauma and worsens postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Dr. Alexis reported that he serves as a consultant to Schick and is on the advisory board for Allergan. SDEF and this news organization are owned by Elsevier.