Aesthetic Dermatology

Maximize cosmetic procedures for men


 

AT THE AAD ANNUAL MEETING

MIAMI BEACH – More men are seeking cosmetic dermatologic procedures and products, and successfully engaging and treating this segment of the population require recognition of a number of gender-specific differences with respect to skin biology, skin aging, behaviors, and rejuvenation goals, according to Dr. Ivan Camacho.

"We need to be able to understand all of these the differences in order to be able to provide tailored treatments for our patients, so they can get the best results possible," Dr. Camacho said during a focus session on men’s aesthetics at the annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Skin biology

When it comes to skin biology, men and women share a number of characteristics, but there are important differences driven by genetic or hormonal specificity that can affect treatment outcomes, Dr. Camacho said. For example, although the number of cell layers and thickness of the stratum corneum is similar in men and women, the dermis is about 20% thicker in men than in women, across the age spectrum and in all anatomic locations, he noted.

Men also have higher collagen density early in life, but they experience skin thinning at a younger age than women. For women, skin thickness generally remains constant until menopause, and then the skin begins to thin rapidly. This difference is most likely because of the role of testosterone in maintaining collagen content, said Dr. Camacho of the University of Miami.

Men also have less subcutaneous fat, greater distribution of body fat in the abdomen and trunk, and higher facial bone density mass than women, Dr. Camacho explained. In addition, men tend to have higher transepidermal water loss because of the lack of estrogen, which has positive effects in the stratum corneum, he said.

Dr. Camacho described other functional differences in men’s skin compared with women’s skin, including:

• A fourfold increase in sebum generation.

• A 30% overall increase in sweating.

• Different hair distribution as determined by androgens, but also by genetics.

• Stronger skin tone.

• Greater sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, and thus a lower minimal erythema dose threshold and increased rate of skin cancers.

• Greater susceptibility to bacterial and viral infections and slower healing rates as a result of the inhibitory effects of testosterone and hydrotestosterone with respect to wound healing.

• Greater susceptibility to stress-induced immunosuppression, which may explain the higher skin cancer rates and delayed wound healing.

Skin aging

As for the aging process, men age differently from women in that their higher collagen density leads to better maintenance of elasticity, and their higher facial bone density provides better overall support, said Dr. Camacho.

However, thicker skin and stronger muscles make men more prone to develop deeper expression lines, as opposed to the "superficial wrinkles that women complain about," Dr. Camacho noted.

Also, the reduced level of subcutaneous fat in men can lead to more dramatic volume loss.

"Men are ‘sinkers.’ We sink more than wrinklers or saggers, because we have good elasticity, but we actually tend to lose quite a bit of subcutaneous fat," Dr. Camacho explained.

As a result of other differences related to skin aging, he said, men’s skin may be:

• More prone to acne and enlarged pores due to the higher sebaceous gland count.

• More prone to darker and/or redder complexions because of the increased tone and vascularity.

• More likely to have dull areas due to the epidermal water loss.

• Less prone to perioral lines and wrinkles due to facial hair distribution, which acts as a structural support.

• More likely to have unwanted fat in the abdominal and trunk region.

• More likely to develop both melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancers and to experience photoaging because of greater sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.

Behavior

In Dr. Camacho’s experience, men tend to be very goal oriented, and that carries over to cosmetic procedures.

"Men are very results-oriented, so we want to have a very clear purpose of what we want to achieve with a given treatment or product," he added, noting that male patients often prefer a lot of detail about procedures and processes.

Providing the extra details requires a greater educational effort on the part of the physician, he said, but "that’s a great thing, because they are going to be well informed about the pros and cons of a given treatment."

Male patients also want fast results. For these reasons, injectables and laser therapies are probably a good fit, he noted.

Men also tend to prefer simplicity, minimal discomfort, and minimal downtime, making noninvasive procedures and multifunctional skin care products ideal, he added.

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